Hibiscus - almost perfect meal

Date visited: 12 Sept 2011

2 Michelin-starred and number 43 on the San Pellegino World's 50 best restaurant list. However, after an average foodie experience on my previous visit, I have to admit that I was rather hesistant to come back again. But I have heard the dessert flavour combinations are pretty unique and I have to give it another go. A dinner reservation was made...by the end of the night, I'm glad I did...

Parmesan gougeres

As we perused the menu, we were served these fantastic gougeres. One of the best I have eaten for sure. Crisp on the outside. Soft and light on the the inside. Perfection. In a way, it sets the tone for the night ahead...We ordered the surprised 8 course tasting which consisted of 5 starter, 1 main and 2 desserts (everything was left to the chef to decide, except the two desserts that we had chosen from the ala carte).

Amuse bouche: Chilled discovery apple soda

 The amuse bouche was different to the usual hibiscus and pineapple soda. Instead it was a apple soda with carrot foam. We were told to take two sips before drinking it like a shot. Fizzly refreshing...

Starter 1: Royale of Aged Parmesan, Candied Walnuts, Summer Truffles, Tarbais Bean Veloute

Starter 2: Salad of Cornish Crab, Green Mango, Sea Herbs, Sweet and Sour Dressing

Very nice start to the meal. Loved the freshness and sweetness of the crab balanced by the slight sourness of the green mango. A light dish after a slightly heavy first starter...

Starter 3: Scottish Lobster & Burnt Sweetcorn, Jerusalem Artichoke & Vanilla Puree, Butter Milk

 Claude Bosi seems to love coffee on a dish. Coffee jelly and ground coffee on dishes on my previous visit, which in my opinion, unsettled the dishes. This time it went brilliantly with the sweetness of the lobster and the sweetcorn. The jerusalem artichoke puree and coffee gel really was a masterstroke. Who would expect lobster and coffee on a plate? In addition, each element on the plate was perfectly cooked...

Starter 4: Toasted Rice Risotto, Ceps & Glazed winkles

The next course is a Toasted rice risotto with ceps and glazed winkles. If you didn't know, winkles are a tiny snail-like shellfish... Another nicely presented dish...The x-factor of the dish comes from using toasted rice. It adds another dimension to the taste which goes well with the ceps and winkles. In a way, it adds a sort of earthiness to the dish. It may be one of the simplest dishes of the night, but it was sooo good...

Starter 5: Roast Foie Gras, Black Fig Puree, Raspberry Vinegar Gel & Cinnamon Crumble

Main Course: Roasted Wooley Park Guinea Fowl Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms, Carrot & Orange Puree

Another perfectly balanced dish. The raspberry gel and black fig puree balancing well with the richness of the foie gras.

Finally we arrive at the main course. The guinea fowl was cooked to perfection. No hint of dryness at all. Every element on the plate was cooked perfectly. Each element tasted fine, but when put together, it just tasted a little strange...My guess is probably the stuffing with the orange and carrot puree...

Pre-dessert: Strawberry Salad, Celeriac Jelly, Sze Chuan Pepper Mousse

I would seriously have this everyday if I could. Sooooo yummy. Acidity and swetness of the strawberries, the sweetness of the celariac jelly and a slight heat coming from the Sze chuan pepper mouse...truly fantastic..Probably one of my favourites of all time.

Dessert 1: Cep Tart, Blood Peach, Macademia Nut Ice cream

Dessert 2: Balsamic Souffle, Confit Pineapple, Baked Potato & Pineapple Ice cream

 The two desserts were truly sensational flavour combinations. The cep tart was largely the reason why I decided to come here again (and I double-checked just to ensure it was on the menu) and I'm relieved it didn't disappoint. The cep filling under the blood peach was packed with flavour. The tart pastry was just how I like my tart pastry to be. Crispy and almost (but not yet) biscuity-like texture. The macademia nut ice cream was smooth and went well with the cep tart. In addition, the blood peach made the dish a lot lighter, while adding sweetness to the cep tart. Truly indulgent...

If you think ceps in a tart for dessert is weird, then the next dessert definitely will be stranger. Balsamic souffle, confit pineapple and a baked potato & pineapple ice cream. That's right...Baked potato and pineapple ice cream.. However, I have to admit that as weird as it sounds, it tasted super good. There's something addicting about eating it. The baked potato & pineapple ice cream has a rather light finish to it with the help of the pineapple. The confit pineapple added sweetness to the dish. Everything just tasted very well together...Probably one of its kind...You've got to taste either dessert if you got a chance.

Overall, it was a fantastic meal. The meal definitely ended on a high. Service was very good and the waiter serving our section was really passionate about the food of the restaurant. That's what I want to see.

Our petit fours were given in a small box to take home...

 Looks can deceive. What seem like normal chocolate certainly didn't taste like it... From top right: Chocolate with salted caramel filling, White chocolate with fennel and apple, Smoked fudge, Dark chocolate with dark chocolate and cep filling. Loved the smoked fudge...the smokiness gives it a very light finish instead of feeling the sugar in the back of your throat...

Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons

Date visited: 9th February 2011
Restaurant Profile:
Chef Patron: Raymond Blanc
Executive chef: Gary Jones
2 Michelin Stars
5 AA Rosettes

Ordered the tasting menu...

Amuse Bouche

From left:

Salmon wrap with salmon jelly, goats cheese bruschetta with toasted olives, black pudding stuffed with hazelnuts and sultanas, vegetable curry ball with lime mayonnaise, chorizo flavoured cod roe served with crispy sour dough, and apple cube with goats cheese and celery.

The amuse bouche platter was supposed to be shared between 2 diners, but being Big Bouba, I couldn't resist asking for an extra portion. Otherwise, was I suppose to cut a tiny morsel of food into two?

TARTARE OF SCOTTISH LANGOUSTINE, Japanese savoury custard.

This dish definitely had an oriental feel. It’s almost like Japanese chawanmushi with langoustine tatare and caviar, but served cold. It was a good way to start a meal. Spring onion gave that dish a little finishing touch. A classic example of how a peasant dish could be made posh.


CONFIT OF LANDAIS DUCK LIVER, pineapple and vanilla chutney, toasted sour dough.

I actually did enjoy the duck liver a lot. It literally melts in the mouth like butter – not exaggerating. It was well seasoned and well-balanced. The mouth snapping flavor from the pineapple and vanilla chutney were good additions to the dish. 

 

CONFIT OF FARMED SCOTTISH SALMON, cucumber, wasabi dressing, pickled mouli.

The fish was cooked to perfection. The rocket salad underneath that beautiful fish was a little too bitter for me and couple that with acidic wasabi yoghurt didn't quite work for me. Thin film of pickled mouli (white coloured radish) and cucumber gave acidity and texture. A rather refreshing finish.


ROASTED WINTER VEGETABLES, pumpkin puree, essence of red wine.

This dish literally changed my life. My initial perception for winter vegetables (mostly root-type) was a bad one, especially beetroots. This dish was wonderfully knitted together and every single component was cooked to perfection. First thing that struck me was the caramelized pumpkin served with caramelized mixed nuts. The sweetness and nutty character of pumpkin just made it a whole lot better. Bright orange creamy pumpkin puree was delicious. I enjoyed the sweet and soft roasted beetroot with the sweet and slightly acidic red wine essence. More importantly, the plate looked immensely vibrant. Great colour combinations! The perfectly seasoned sage crisp and parsnip crisp added additional texture and flavour to the dish.


WILD CORNISH SEA BASS FILLET, hand-dived Scottish scallop, cauliflower puree, star anise jus.

Nicely cooked fish accompanied with cauliflower puree which was very creamy, milky and well seasoned. Pak choi gave texture and it sort of goes well with the star anise jus since it was sort of an Asian combination. The portion of scallop is rather miserly.

GOOSNARGH DUCK BREAST, turnip gratin, chicory, clementine curd, jasmine tea sauce.

I think this dish is probably inspired by duck a l’orange. The citrusy clementine curd and perfectly cooked duck breast combination reminds me of that. This dish was accompanied with turnip and apple gratin of which the texture is almost like potato gratin. In fact the flavor was similar until I tasted it carefully, it wasn’t potato. I am fond of jasmine and to my surprise; you can use it to elevate an already good dish to a great one with a jasmine jus. The jasmine and clementine gave the dish a little citrus tea flavor which I thought was refreshing. I quite enjoy some kale on the plate which added crunch. The chicory in my opinion shouldn’t be on the dish, the bitter after taste ruined the refreshing flavours.


EXOTIC FRUIT RAVIOLI, kaffir lime leaf and coconut jus.

Finally, the desserts! The “exotic” fruits (passion fruit, mango, pineapple, peach mixed with panacolada) were wrapped in a thin film of jelly like a ravioli. I really enjoyed it as the fruits went well together giving a tropical feel to the very French lunch. The coconut sorbet and jus was creamy and lovely. The sprinkle of lime leaf on top added a little citrusy zinc to a sweet and rich dessert.


PEAR ALMONDINE, caramel croustillant, ginger sauce and its own sorbet.

The flavor of the pear was so natural, its like tasting the actual fruit in sorbet form. Then you are hit by this wonderfully balanced ginger sauce to give a little heat. For the caramel croustillant, the crust was crispy and had a sticky finish (the caramel compresses as you bite it and it sticks lightly on your teeth to give you this sensational texture). Hidden inside it was buttery and light. The nougatine on top of the croustillant was nicely made. On a side note, the thin film of pear crisp was quite impressive.


Macae 62% chocolate marquise with Tonda hazelnut and lemon butterscotch sauce:

A very good chocolate cake. It was bitter and densely packed with cocoa solid, just the way I like it. The star of this dessert was the sheet of chocolate caramel which was very crispy and thin, very delicate. Lemon butterscotch gave acidic flavor to the chocolate, it was alright. The caramelized hazelnut gave nutty notes and enhances the flavor of the chocolate caramel film. A very good dessert indeed.


Petit fours:

From bottom right, top of that, next to it and work along there. Hazelnut and praline chocolate, Hazelnut ice cream, Lavender nougat, Chestnut cake of some sort, caramelized chestnut parfait, white chocolate with passion fruit and coconut cream, lemon curd macaroon. 

Big Bouba’s scorecard:

Food 7/10

Ambience 8/10

Service 8/10

Value for money 5/10


It was just too expensive for the food we had. Unfortunately.

Address:

Church Road

Great Milton

Oxfordshire

OX44 7PD

England

The Fat Duck

Welcome to our maiden post :)

Date visited: 12 Feb 2011
Restaurant Profile:
Chef Patron: Heston Blumenthal
3 Michelin Stars
5 AA Rosettes
No. 3 in S. Pellegrino World Ranking as of date of visit.


The Fat Duck is arguably Britain's most famous restaurant and is recognised as one of the world's top 3 restaurants (based on the San Pellegrino restaurant rankings).
After months of waiting and hours of travelling, one last short taxi ride from Maidenhead station and we arrived at the restaurant. Eagerly anticipating the gastronomical journey Heston has created ahead of us...

With the Fat Duck being a three michelin-starred restaurant and one of the top few restaurants in the world, one would expect to step into a royal palace. However, stepping inside the dining room it doesn't scream luxury, but oozes in appeal with its cosy and somewhat rustic charm. Low ceiling, wood beams, white walls with canvases of abstract art. It just makes you feel comfortable...



The journey begins...


Amuse Bouche: Aerated beetroot with horseradish cream

NITRO POACHED APERITIFS: Vodka and Lime

NITRO-POACHED APERITIFS: Campari & Soda

RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO, Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream

The Oak Moss

JELLY OF QUAIL, CRAYFISH CREAM, Chicken Liver Parfait, Pea Puree, Truffle Toast & Oak Moss


The Truffle Toast

SNAIL PORRIDGE, Iberico Bellota Ham, Shaved Fennel

ROAST FOIE GRAS, Rhubarb, Braised Konbu & Crab Biscuit

MOCK TURTLE SOUP


MAD HATTER TEA clockwatch dissolving...


Finally, we have...MOCK TURTLE SOUP, Mad Hatter's Tea

SOUND OF THE SEA: Mackerel, Halibut,Yellowfin with dried tapioca sand, elvers, samphire and other sea vegetables with a seaweed stock foam

SALMON POACHED IN LIQUORICE GEL, Artichoke, Vanilla Mayonnaise, Golden Trout Roe & Grapefruit Cells

SADDLE OF VENISON, Beetroot Soubise, Spet Risotto and Umbles, Black Truffles

SPELT RISOTTO with Umbles


HOT & ICED TEA created with fluid gels

GALETTE OF RHUBARB, Neroli Scented Yogurt & Rhubarb sorbet

THE BLACKFOREST GATEAU aka BFG. Layers of dark and white chocolate mousse, chocolate sponge with griottine cherry, aerated chocolate, kirsch ganache, almond base & topped with amarena cherry

The PETIT FOURS: "LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP"
1. AERATED CHOCOLATE, Mandarin Jelly
2. COCONUT BACCY, Coconut infused with an aroma of black cavendish tabacco
3. APPLE PIE CARAMEL, Edible wrapper
4. QUEEN OF HEARTS

QUEEN OF HEARTS, White Chocolate with raspberry centre


AERATED CHOCOLATE, Mandarin Jelly

5 hours and 13 courses later, what can we say? The experience itself was indeed a gastronomic treat. This was what food should be all about. Fun, enjoyable, exciting...an adventure... From the first course of aperitifs poached in boiling liquid nitrogen to the cool mist of the oak moss, from the sound of the sea to the smell of the blackforest. We were truly like "a kid in a sweet shop" when every course was served. This was truly a gastronomical treat to remember. Now bring on Dinner by Heston...