Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons

Date visited: 9th February 2011
Restaurant Profile:
Chef Patron: Raymond Blanc
Executive chef: Gary Jones
2 Michelin Stars
5 AA Rosettes

Ordered the tasting menu...

Amuse Bouche

From left:

Salmon wrap with salmon jelly, goats cheese bruschetta with toasted olives, black pudding stuffed with hazelnuts and sultanas, vegetable curry ball with lime mayonnaise, chorizo flavoured cod roe served with crispy sour dough, and apple cube with goats cheese and celery.

The amuse bouche platter was supposed to be shared between 2 diners, but being Big Bouba, I couldn't resist asking for an extra portion. Otherwise, was I suppose to cut a tiny morsel of food into two?

TARTARE OF SCOTTISH LANGOUSTINE, Japanese savoury custard.

This dish definitely had an oriental feel. It’s almost like Japanese chawanmushi with langoustine tatare and caviar, but served cold. It was a good way to start a meal. Spring onion gave that dish a little finishing touch. A classic example of how a peasant dish could be made posh.


CONFIT OF LANDAIS DUCK LIVER, pineapple and vanilla chutney, toasted sour dough.

I actually did enjoy the duck liver a lot. It literally melts in the mouth like butter – not exaggerating. It was well seasoned and well-balanced. The mouth snapping flavor from the pineapple and vanilla chutney were good additions to the dish. 

 

CONFIT OF FARMED SCOTTISH SALMON, cucumber, wasabi dressing, pickled mouli.

The fish was cooked to perfection. The rocket salad underneath that beautiful fish was a little too bitter for me and couple that with acidic wasabi yoghurt didn't quite work for me. Thin film of pickled mouli (white coloured radish) and cucumber gave acidity and texture. A rather refreshing finish.


ROASTED WINTER VEGETABLES, pumpkin puree, essence of red wine.

This dish literally changed my life. My initial perception for winter vegetables (mostly root-type) was a bad one, especially beetroots. This dish was wonderfully knitted together and every single component was cooked to perfection. First thing that struck me was the caramelized pumpkin served with caramelized mixed nuts. The sweetness and nutty character of pumpkin just made it a whole lot better. Bright orange creamy pumpkin puree was delicious. I enjoyed the sweet and soft roasted beetroot with the sweet and slightly acidic red wine essence. More importantly, the plate looked immensely vibrant. Great colour combinations! The perfectly seasoned sage crisp and parsnip crisp added additional texture and flavour to the dish.


WILD CORNISH SEA BASS FILLET, hand-dived Scottish scallop, cauliflower puree, star anise jus.

Nicely cooked fish accompanied with cauliflower puree which was very creamy, milky and well seasoned. Pak choi gave texture and it sort of goes well with the star anise jus since it was sort of an Asian combination. The portion of scallop is rather miserly.

GOOSNARGH DUCK BREAST, turnip gratin, chicory, clementine curd, jasmine tea sauce.

I think this dish is probably inspired by duck a l’orange. The citrusy clementine curd and perfectly cooked duck breast combination reminds me of that. This dish was accompanied with turnip and apple gratin of which the texture is almost like potato gratin. In fact the flavor was similar until I tasted it carefully, it wasn’t potato. I am fond of jasmine and to my surprise; you can use it to elevate an already good dish to a great one with a jasmine jus. The jasmine and clementine gave the dish a little citrus tea flavor which I thought was refreshing. I quite enjoy some kale on the plate which added crunch. The chicory in my opinion shouldn’t be on the dish, the bitter after taste ruined the refreshing flavours.


EXOTIC FRUIT RAVIOLI, kaffir lime leaf and coconut jus.

Finally, the desserts! The “exotic” fruits (passion fruit, mango, pineapple, peach mixed with panacolada) were wrapped in a thin film of jelly like a ravioli. I really enjoyed it as the fruits went well together giving a tropical feel to the very French lunch. The coconut sorbet and jus was creamy and lovely. The sprinkle of lime leaf on top added a little citrusy zinc to a sweet and rich dessert.


PEAR ALMONDINE, caramel croustillant, ginger sauce and its own sorbet.

The flavor of the pear was so natural, its like tasting the actual fruit in sorbet form. Then you are hit by this wonderfully balanced ginger sauce to give a little heat. For the caramel croustillant, the crust was crispy and had a sticky finish (the caramel compresses as you bite it and it sticks lightly on your teeth to give you this sensational texture). Hidden inside it was buttery and light. The nougatine on top of the croustillant was nicely made. On a side note, the thin film of pear crisp was quite impressive.


Macae 62% chocolate marquise with Tonda hazelnut and lemon butterscotch sauce:

A very good chocolate cake. It was bitter and densely packed with cocoa solid, just the way I like it. The star of this dessert was the sheet of chocolate caramel which was very crispy and thin, very delicate. Lemon butterscotch gave acidic flavor to the chocolate, it was alright. The caramelized hazelnut gave nutty notes and enhances the flavor of the chocolate caramel film. A very good dessert indeed.


Petit fours:

From bottom right, top of that, next to it and work along there. Hazelnut and praline chocolate, Hazelnut ice cream, Lavender nougat, Chestnut cake of some sort, caramelized chestnut parfait, white chocolate with passion fruit and coconut cream, lemon curd macaroon. 

Big Bouba’s scorecard:

Food 7/10

Ambience 8/10

Service 8/10

Value for money 5/10


It was just too expensive for the food we had. Unfortunately.

Address:

Church Road

Great Milton

Oxfordshire

OX44 7PD

England